A cooler day today Just as well as it was a tough day on the path. We took a full 7 hours to walk 24 kms, with big climbs and steep descents for most of the day. We were not as close to the ocean and had just one 'mapped' beach walk at Milinesia Beach (where we stopped briefly for lunch) and another at the start of our day, at Wreck Beach.
We were dropped off this morning at a vehicle access area above Wreck Beach, to walk in reverse direction back to Johanna Beach. We assured Mark that we would have no problem walking 'against the markers' and we didn't, except for a slight detour at the start.
Just a few minutes after our drop off, we followed a sign down to Wreck Beach. It was immediately a very steep descent - of more than 500 stairs - and I could only think we were lucky to be walking down, not up. Turns out we did both. Within a few metres of arriving at the bottom of the 500 stairs, we realised it wasn't possible to walk far along the beach. We climbed back up the 500 stairs and this time had a proper look at the sign. It was an optional side trip, not the main path. Oh well!
After our false start, the day did not get a whole lot easier. Lots of climbing down deep into narrow valleys and back up to ridges and cliff tops, with some spectacular views along the way. On Day 1 of our walk, I didn't use my walking poles at all; on Day 2 just a few times. Today I used them pretty much all day, except the last 5 kms which were an easy stroll. I was very happy to have them with me - I almost didn't pack them - particularly on the steep descents where most mishaps occur.
About a week before we came down here I met my friend Jill for a coffee, with another friend Pat whom I hadn't met before. Pat and her husband are keen walkers and we discovered that we'd done a few of the same walks, and that a few years ago they had walked the Great Ocean Walk. Pat told us how much they'd enjoyed the walk, then added 'some parts are quite tough, be sure to take your poles'. Until then I hadn't thought about that. The distances were not unusual for us, and we wouldn't be carrying a full pack, just a day pack. So I hadn't thought I'd need poles. But I always take note of tips from someone who's walked a path before me. As soon as I returned home, the poles were put in the bottom of the suitcase. Thanks Pat!!
Domi, on the other hand carried one of his poles each day but hasn't used it at all. He is very sure footed on the way down and usually skips ahead at quite a pace. At one particularly steep section I called down to him 'Attention a toi. Rapelle-toi tu n'es pas une chevre de montagne'. Be careful. Remember, you're not a mountain goat. I don't know that he thought my warning was necessary, but I'm sure he appreciated my French!
Last day tomorrow, walking the last 19 kms from Wreck Beach to the Twelve Apostles. We are looking forward to it very much. 'Une bonne balade', says The French. A good walk!
J X
